Tasmania 2024
After several aborted attempts to reach the Daintree rainforest, I delayed my plans to head north, and instead set my sights south - Tasmania.
There is a gallery with more images from the trip here.
Days 1 through 3
Commute days to reach Geelong in time to board The Spirit of Tasmania 1 ferry to Devonport, Tasmania. While I didn’t plan on taking photographs during these days, I did find the opportunity to take these two. The first is a three shot panorama of a wheat field in New South Wales. The second is an old shed I saw in a field in Victoria.
The Ferry Ride
I made the ferry terminal in Geelong with time to spare and made it though security screening. The cabin was small but comfortable. Food and service were great. The problem was the the sea conditions. The weather resulted in rough conditions. I am not fond of boats - I get seasick. The result was a very poor night’s sleep with the boat rocking from side to side and up and down a bit.
Day 4 - Devonport to Launceston
Mostly a recovery day today. I didn’t fare too well on the ferry ride. It wasn’t until the following morning that I felt well again - testament to how poorly I faired on the boat. Think I‘ll need to limit any future travel plans to either land or air travel. The sea is for fishing,
Day 5 - Cataract Gorge
First full day in one location. I spent some time hiking Cataract Gorge this morning. It was the first ‘must visit’ location for this trip. The rain overnight ensured the river was in full flow - with flood warnings in place. I did struggle a little with landscape photography this morning - only a couple of clean photographs. I did manage to grab a few nice photos of the local Peacocks.
Posing Peacock.
Day 6 - Launceston to St Helens
The weather continued to be a mixed blessing. Cooler temperatures for driving and hiking. The rain has meant that waterfalls are falling. The wind has brought down trees across the road, and the cross winds while driving are the worst I have ever experienced. Actually glad I couldn’t use my caravan for this trip - towing in these conditions would have been an interesting experience to say the least.
Halls Falls. Took a little rock hopping, and collecting two leeches in the process - was worth it.
Day 7 - St Helens to Port Arthur
On the road again today. Starting to think differently about travel time and distance. My previous road trips were through all mainland Australia. For those trips a 500+ kilometre day is the norm. Driving around Tasmania, sub-200 kilometre days seem the norm. Affords me the opportunity to visit more locations.
Upon arriving at my accommodation for the next few days, I went for a walk around dusk. Met some of the wildlife in the park, specifically the Tasmanian Red Bellied Pademelon.
Tasmanian Red Bellied Pademelon. This particular one was blind in its right eye. Not a perfect photo (it is blurry) as I was hand holding a rig weighing in the vicinity of 3kg, and I am not the buffest of men.
Day 8 - Meeting the Locals
Staying in Port Arthur for a few days. Gives me the opportunity to explore the sights, and do some laundry. Face it, when on tour, the domestic duties still need to be done.
Visited the Tasmanian Devil Unzoo (https://tasmaniandevilunzoo.com.au) this morning. One of my nieces gave me specific instructions to see and photograph Tasmanian Devils. Considering they’re nocturnal, trying to see them in the wild was going to be a long shot. Luckily, there is a ‘zoo’ (of sorts) near Port Arthur. Named for these creatures, they offer further experiences - feeding Forester Kangaroos and the Green Rosellas, and seeing the Yellow Wattlebird.
This afternoon was laundry day. On the way back to my cabin from the laundry, I slipped in the mud and bruised my ego, and soiled (on the outside) my pants. More laundry to do. Also a valuable lesson in walking around on less than ideal surfaces - don’t wear thongs (flip-flops for those not familiar with Australian), and be careful where you put your foot down.
Days 9 and 10 - Connecting with the Past
Spent the morning wandering around the Port Arthur Historic Site, looking at the remains of the buildings and learning more about the history of the site.
Looking toward the remains of the Penitentiary building.
There are modern works to many of the buildings. Unfortunate, but necessary to save them from total collapse.
The afternoon of Day 9 was spent visiting Remarkable Cave and The Mango Blowhole. I really should have visited this area when the weather was poor and the seas really rough. The blowhole wasn’t living up to its name when I visited, but the ocean still had some life in it.
I also saw an Echidna searching for food amongst the bushes around the viewing platform.
Later discovered that I had accidentally turned off image stabilisation. This is the only image that was salvageable.
The afternoon of Day 10 was spent organising and packing up in preparation for departure to Hobart, as well as planning the next couple of days. I had planned to visit Mount Wellington, specifically to see the disappearing Tarn. Checking early in the morning the road to Mount Wellington was closed owing to the snowfall. When I checked this afternoon, the roads were open. Might be able to visit Mount Wellington tomorrow, then loop back to my accommodation for the following two nights.
Day 11 - On the Way to Hobart
Checking the road conditions early this morning I found the road up to the top of Mount Wellington open, so I departed Port Arthur as soon as I had packed the excessive amount of stuff I brought with me back into the car.
The weather conditions on Mount Wellington are unpredictable, and had been wild over the last few days.
I did manage to drive to the top of Mount Wellington, where I found the wind that strong it was difficult to open the car door. Despite my overall, probably poor, physical condition, I was at least prepared for some hiking and poor weather with sturdy hiking boots, thermal underwear, and decent warm outer layers. All welcome, as the temperature, according to the outside air temperature readout in my car, was less than 10ºC, and the wind gusting in excess of 90kph while I was there, conditions were not the most pleasant.
That said, this was only the third time in my life I can recall seeing snow. For those still reading, I’ve never seen snow fall.
I did manage to capture a few nice images from the mountain top. And I only fell down in the snow twice (at least it was soft and cushioned my fall) and only once stepped in soft snow, where I sank up to my left knee, and found the flow of cold water under the snow - my left foot was a little wet and cold for a while.
Still, I travel to see new sights and experience new things. I feel the trials and tribulations of a wet food, slightly bruised ego, and winds so strong I had to lean forward to make progress. And yes, I did jump in the air, in the parking lot, and the wind moved my roughly 100kg bulk, so it was fairly strong on the exposed summit.
Retreating from the summit, I returned to one of the lower parking lots, noting on the way how beautiful the scenery was, or would have been had it not been for the wind - the snow on the ground and the low shrubs dotted around.
One of the things I had planned to visit was the Disappearing Tarn - search the internet for it, you’ll find details. I hadn’t realised just how much hiking would be involved in reaching that location. Considering the distances involved, my (lack of) fitness level, and the difficulty of the hike I had to pass of that.
Instead, I starting hiking for some of the local tracks to points of interest. Sadly, owing to the poor weather of the preceding days, many of the tracks I encountered were too risky to attempt - many had wet, slippery, rock paths. As alluded to above, I am not a role model for good health. I decided to not chance it and routinely turned back from these hazardous paths, as I am hiking alone, and was carrying what is, for me, some considerable weight on my back (the cameras and lenses I have cannot be called light).
I will note the I did enjoy the hikes anyway. Comfortable temperatures, out in nature with the sound of water running over rocks, with no technology pinging, binging, chirping or dinging for my attention every five seconds.
Didn’t take any photographs, but enjoyed myself anyway.
Day 12 - Hobart
After getting myself settled in my accommodation for the two nights I was in the area yesterday, I planned out the following day, and as I had already visited the top of Mount Wellington, I decided upon a bus ride into Hobart to see the sights of the state capital. This wasn’t intended to be a photographic opportunity, but rather a tourist wandering around and seeing some of the local landmarks and culture.
Looking up at Mount Wellington I realised it was a good thing I visited the previous day, as the summit appeared completely engulfed in clouds.
I visited Battery Park, the harbour area, where I had fish & chips for lunch, strolled through some of the older sections of the city with the remaining historic buildings. Well worth a wander.
Day 13 - On to Lake St Clair
Not too far to travel today, so I had some time to fill in. Paid a visit to the Museum of Old and New Art in Tasmania. Visited Drew Vineyard in search of of some wine (and left with 12 bottles of the stuff).
While the scenery is most picturesque, that does not mean photogenic, but I am keeping my eyes open for any opportunities. Old buildings in fields are providing opportunities from time to time, assuming I can find a safe place to stop and take a picture or two.
An old barn.
Many of the rivers were in full flow, which was good to see. Sadly that also meant flood warnings for many parts of the state.
Day 14 & 15 - Just Hiking in the Rain
First Full Day at Lake St Clair
And yet again - the rain. Tried to catch the morning golden hour, however, the weather had other ideas. Temperatures today were forecast at single digits (Celsius) all day, before the wind-chill factor. Felt like it too first thing this morning.
That said, I didn’t travel all this way to sit in a cabin and watch television, so after an excellent breakfast at the restaurant (they pride themselves on all organic produce here) I donned the wet weather gear, reduced the amount of photographic equipment I was carrying, and headed out into the elements.
Lake St Clair seems rather full at the moment, thanks to the recent rains. Sadly didn’t see a Platypus, but the weather does make for some dark and moody images of the mountains.
I hiked out to Platypus Bay, and of the Overland Trail.
Day Two at the Lake
More rain and wind this morning. The fog was so think I could only just make out the silhouette of the mountains on the other side of the lake.]
After breakfast the sun started making cameo appearances during the day. The clouds and on again, off again rain were the stars of the weather for yet another day. Hiked out around the larmairremener tablet, Aboriginal cultural walk. Trees were down in a half-dozen places, but I was able to work my way under, over and through those.
The wildlife has been fairly quiet during my time here.
On to Cradle Mountain tomorrow. Looking at the live feed from there, in the Parks & Wildlife Information Centre here at Lake St Clair, the mountain is entirely smothered in fog, clouds and rain.
Day 16 - Lake to Cradle (Mountain)
Slow day on the road - the Tasmanian lack of distance means I can take my time and enjoy the sights. The scenery is beautiful.
Stopped off at Nelson’s Falls for a walk and photo shoot. Sadly couldn’t capture a photo of the Pink Robin - it didn’t stay still long enough.
Nelson's Falls
Not so much rain today. Maybe the weather is starting to improve, just in time for me to leave Tasmania.
Upon arriving at my accomodation for the next two nights I was given a free room upgrade. I also had the opportunity to do more domestic chores - yep, more laundry. The last time I’d need to wash before I return home. A necessary chore - I was running out of clean, dry clothes.
Day 17 - Final Day in the Wilderness
As I expected, the ever present rain was, well, present again today. Didn’t stop me from hiking the Dove Lake Circuit - a loop of approximately 6.5 kilometres around Dove Lake.
Dove Lake at Cradle Mountain, looking away from Cradle Mountain.
The hike was relatively easy, although a couple of sections were a little more difficult. Not much in the way of bird life out at the moment either. As for seeing Cradle Mountain, yes, I did sight the summit. Briefly, the clouds were obscuring the higher peaks around the area.
Day 18 - Putting to Sea
The long road home commences.
Overnight the temperature dropped so much that the water bottle I left in the car had ice in it this morning.
Nice and cold.
Definitely happy that I stayed at the Cradle Mountain Hotel, with heating, including wood fired heaters.
Drove out to Stanley for lunch before heading back east to Devonport. Hoping the seas will be calmer than they were when I sailed from Geelong to Davenport.
Day 19 to 21 - Heading North
The journey on the ferry from Tasmania to Victoria was definitely better - the sea was a lot calmer. Still didn’t have the best nights sleep, but wasn’t suffering from sea sickness on the morning of Day 19.
Relatively easy drive, albeit a bit long at more than 700km. Swung by the Dog on the Tucker Box near Gundagai.
In total, I covered 5,438 kilometres on road by the time I returned home. Time to start thinking about next years adventure…